Tag Archives: hedge trimming

Fall Checklist

Fall Checklist

Wrapping Evergreens

Yews and Alberta Spruce are the most susceptible to winter wind and sun burn. It is, therefore, advisable to keep these plants wrapped with burlap from top to bottom, beginning in the late fall. Never use plastic as a wrap – even in the winter months plants must be able to “breathe.” Evergreens should be well-watered before the severe ground frost of mid-December to guard against desiccation (drying-out) caused by cold winter winds.

Wrap burlap around cedars and evergreens that are exposed to wind. Again, a reminder, the last 2 winters have been quite the winters where plant damage was concerned.
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Two layers of burlap around all evergreens will help to prevent snow damage (from the weight of snow), salt spray (from the melted snow on a nearby road, especially on the east side of the road) and sun scald in late winter (when the sun reflects off a clean, white layer of snow onto evergreen foliage).
wrapping evergreens with burlap wrapping evergreens with burlap for winter
Upright evergreens, such as Junipers and Cedars suffer the most damage from the weight of snow on their branches. This will not usually kill the plant, but can make it unsightly the following year. The best protection is to cover the juniper with netting. Apply in late fall and leave on the plant until the threat of snow has passed in early spring.
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Tender Trees & Shrubs

Rhododendrons & Azaleas

These plants are very susceptible to wind, sun and snow damage through the winter months, especially if they have been planted in an unprotected location. Be sure to cover the root area with up to eight inches of mulch. Then build a shelter around each plant with burlap and stakes to keep out the wind and the sun. Make sure the soil around the plants is moist going into the freeze, the more moisture available to them over the winter, the better.
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Japanese Maples, Magnolias, Eastern Redbuds & Peach Trees

Similar to Rhododendrons & Azaleas, these plants are very susceptible to wind, sun and snow damage through the winter months, especially if they have been planted in an unprotected location. Build a shelter around each plant with burlap and stakes to keep out the wind and the sun. Be sure to water really well going into the winter freeze – keep watering until the ground freezes.
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Wilt-Pruf

This is liquid magic on boxwood, yews, cedars, euonymus, rhododendrons and other evergreens that are exposed to wind and road-salt-spray.
Wilt-Pruf is an ‘anti-desiccant’ that provides an invisible layer of protection to all broad-leaved evergreens through winter. The humidity in our winter air drops to less than 10% some days, causing the moisture in the foliage of tender evergreens to evaporate. The result is browning in the extreme.
AND…your Christmas tree will benefit from an application of this too, reducing needle drop and fire hazard.
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Covering Roses

Cut your roses back approximately 1/3 by removing all frozen buds after the first heavy frost. Remove all leaves as much as possible and dust the lower branches with a general fungicide. Using a rose collar, build fresh garden soil 2′ high around each rose bush – cover as much of the rose as possible. Do not use manure, peat moss or other material high in organic matter (ie, compost, straw, leaves etc.).
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Climbing Roses

Climbing roses should be pruned only very slightly in the fall by removing the frozen buds and tips of the most tender growth. The branches of climbing roses should be tied together and wrapped in burlap. Never use plastic. Build up soil around the roots the same as for other roses.

Lawns

Feed your lawn. The most important application of the year occurs in the fall, but only when you apply it. Fall fertilizing helps to strengthen your lawn and the lawn’s roots, providing stamina to help it survive the long winter. If you haven’t done it, it is not too late. Fall is also a great time to overseed. Come spring your lawn will thank you by greening up quickly with much greater resistance to snow mold and brown-out. You can read more about topdressing and overseeding here on our blog
The last mowing should be done very close to the ground and the clippings raked away. This will prevent fungal diseases from destroying grass roots over the winter.
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Watering

Water, Water, Water! It is very important to continue to water until the ground freezes. Plants need moisture in the ground to get them through the winter.  If we have a long winter like we have had for the past 2 years, plants rely on the moisture to keep their leaves from drying out too much (winter injury and burn will be much worse on dry plants).

Hedge Trimming

Now is the time to trim your hedges and evergreens. You want to finish trimming your evergreens before it freezes as it could cause injury to the foliage. If you don’t want to trim your evergreens and hedges, or you can’t – we can! Fill out our online request form to request a free quote!
shrubs cedar emerald georgina garden centre gardening tips

Trees

If you don’t have plastic spiral collars on your trees, put them on now! These quick, simple, economical little guys will save your trees from rodent and animal damage. Put them on all your trees – Japanese Maples, fruit trees, shade trees etc. You’ll be thankful in the spring that you did this!
plastic spiral tree wrap guard

Leaves

Leaves are garden gold. Spread small leaves of trees, such as locust, birch, beech, serviceberry and silver maple (or shredded larger leaves), over all exposed soil. They will degrade into mineral nutrients and worms will turn them into fertilizer.
fall leaves

Planting Bulbs

Squirrels “read” the disturbed soil and marks you leave when planting their favourite tulips and crocuses. Outwit them by concentrating spring bulb plantings in large groups and disguising your marks by flooding the soil surface with water. Then cover them with 5cm (2 inches) of leaves and blood meal.  You can also cover sections of bulbs with chicken wire – the bulbs can grow through it, but squirrels can’t relocate them on you.
planting bulbs georgina garden centre features spring bulbs

Overwintering Plants

If you would like to overwinter any tropicals indoors be sure to bring them in before it gets too cold (anything under 10 degrees Celsius). Be sure to spray them with an insecticide to kill any pests that are hiding, and trim the plant back. Keep in a bright room, keep it from drying out (you want the top inch of soil to be dry before you water it again) and fertilize once a month. Most plants will defoliate because you have moved them into a different climate but they will push out new leaves again once it is acclimatized to your home.

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Hedge Trimming

Hedge Trimming

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There are many different varieties of hedge but the theory remains the same. Establish your shapes and contours early on in the hedges development and maintain these same designs through its lifetime.

The majority of hedges in our area (Georgina) are cedar. Other traditional hedge types include:

  • Cedar
  • Boxwood
  • Yew
  • Flowering
  • Large Evergreens

When setting up your hedge there are a few things to keep in mind. Its better to take too little off when cutting as you can’t put it back on and cutting too deeply and gouging into the wood will create undesirable brown spots. It is better to round out the top of your hedge then to make it perfectly flat as this will help it shed snow avoiding potential shearing and broken branches.

It is imperative that the bottom of the hedge is thicker in width than the top and tapers upwards, never the other way. While your hedge can be shaped in very artistic ways it is still a living thing and has requirements, especially in terms of sunlight. A well shaped hedge allows sunlight to hit the entirety of its surface as such tapering the hedge top down is very important.

The rule of thumb is to cut twice. Cut the hedge in a way that takes off the most vigorous growth then take a rake and gently bang out the cut pieces, going up and down the hedge across its entire length. These bits will brown up in time and make your hedge look unkempt and disorderly. Following the first cut you will see a notable difference in how tight the hedge looks. To help picture what we mean by tightness consider it like given your hedge a haircut. Were looking for a neat buzz cut not a shaggy unkempt look. With a careful second cut we can safely carve this down a little bit further making the hedge tighter again still. This second cut is the stage that gives the hedge its clean crisp and professional look.

Note: hedges should be trimmed at least once a year any time after July but before freeing temperatures. Leaving the hedges for a year will leave you with a less dense product when you are finished as the plants production goes to its leaders rather than its side. Talk to Georgina Garden Centre about best practices if you desire to change the shape of your hedge.

Use string lines when setting the initial shape of the hedge to ensure its lines are straight and linear.

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