Category Archives: natural

Natural Grub Control

Natural White Grub Control for the Lawn & Garden

Are skunks or raccoons digging up your lawn? Do you have large patches of dead grass?

These are sure signs you have grubs.  Grubs are the larval stage of May/June Beetles, Japanese Beetles and European Chafers.

georgina garden centre features natural white grub control

You can use natural Lawn Guardian which consists of beneficial nematodes that are microscopic worms and are native to Canada. Applying beneficial nematodes will stop grubs from damaging the roots of the grass.  It is safe to apply to the garden as well.

lawn guardian beneficial nematodes

Apply in the spring (April-May) when the soil temperature is 10C or warmer and grubs are seen in the soil.  Apply again in late summer (end of August-September) to prevent fall damage, as well as, the following spring.

Repeat applications every year (spring and late summer).

100% Safe for people, pets, plants and earthworms

Beneficial nematodes also help control over 250 insect pests including: Rose Chafer, Rose Midge, Thrips, Birch Leafminer, Cranefly/Leatherjacket, Root Weevils, Fleas, Iris Borer, Cutworms, Webworms, May/June Beetles, Japanese Beetles & European Chafers!

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Note: Beneficial nematodes are most effective when soil is moist and remains moist for 3 to 5 days after application. Lawn Guardian is easy to apply using a hose-end sprayer and comes with full instructions.  Application of 10 million nematodes should take approximately 40 minutes to apply using our hose end sprayer and will cover an area of 2000-3000 sq ft.

Soil Is Soil… Right?

Soil is soil…right?!

‘Tis the time of year for buying new soil for your yard, garden and pots (indoor and out), so what better time to learn the difference between the different types of soil we offer!

Many people don’t know that there is a difference between types of soil and that it really does matter what type of soil you use for different projects.

I think some of it has to do with the fact people are trying to save a buck and a bit of their time, as both are hard to come by, and if they just get one type of soil it will save them time and money. Besides, soil is soil, right? NO!

I always say to customers, you’re spending the money on the plant buy the right soil for it otherwise it all is a waste of time and money!

There are also quite a few people that don’t know that the problem they’re having is because of their soil (their plants keep dying or not preforming how they’d like them to)!

So…

Top soil

Top soil is straight soil with nothing mixed with it.
It is good for using under sod and any other lawn application.  It can be used for topdressing but topdresser is better and easier to apply. Do not use top soil in pots.

georgina garden centre top soil bulk products

Triple Mix

Triple mix is made up of: top soil, manure and peat moss.
It is good for planting in the ground and can be used throughout the garden.
Triple mix helps to break up heavy clay soils and is good to add to sandy soils. Do not use triple mix in pots.

georgina garden centre triple mix bulk products

Garden Soil

Good garden soil contains a combination of: black soil, organic matter, peat moss and horticultural sand.
Garden soil can also be used on the lawn. Don’t limit your lawn soil to just top soil or topdresser, your grass needs as much rich nutrient soil as your garden does!
Garden soil is heavier than potting soil, retains some moisture, and has less air space than potting soil. Do not use garden soil in pots!

**Top soil, topdreser, triple mix & garden soil are for the lawn and/or garden – not pots or containers. They all hold more water than potting soil and does not have the type of drainage that plants in pots need. Your plants will get bogged down over time and will lag behind and could die.**

Potting Soil

As the name states: potting soil is for pots (and containers).  Good potting soil is usually soilless with a combination of: organic matter, perlite, vermiculite and horticultural sand.  It is light and holds water well and has great drainage. There should be a lot of air-space in it.

Soil that contains fertilizer

Buying soil with fertilizer already in it is not necessary and could be a waste of the few extra dollars it costs. If you have container grown before, you would have noticed that when you water your pots, a lot of water comes out the bottom, so does all the nutrients. Buying a good quality potting soil and fertilizing regularly is sufficient for your container plants for the season!

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Fruit Tree Pruning and Spraying

Fruit Tree Pruning & Spraying

It’s Time to Spring Into Action

Here we are, the snow is finally gone and with it the wool socks, the time has come to sharpen your trowels and come up with a game plan for spring garden season. While we are still some time away from sowing seeds and planting outside, there are a few things you can do to get a leg up on the coming season. Lets get out there and get started on what will be another great season.

 

Pruning Fruit Trees

This is a perfect time to get out there and start shaping your trees and shrubs. Beyond the esthetics there are many practical reasons to get pruning especially with your fruit trees.

  1. Proper pruning helps to increase the size and quality of your blooms, foliage and fruit by allocating plant resources.
  2. Increase the plants health by removing damaged, dead or diseased limbs.
  3. Control and direct the plants growth and get rid of any criss-crossing branches.
  4. Compensate for root loss after transplanting.
  5. Improve air circulation and light penetration. It is important to thin out dense growth periodically to increase overall health and shape.
  6. Leader management. Manage the direction and shape of growth by pruning the leading branch of the tree or shrub.
  7. Creating a focal point or landscape feature.
  8. Create more space by pruning back, or thinning out plants.
  9. Expose colorful, textured or shapely stems and bark.

These pruning basics apply to all the common fruit trees we can grow in our zone (zone 5) – apples, pears, plums and cherries.

Lime Sulphur & Horticultural Oil

After pruning apply Lime Sulphur & Horticultural Oil in combination to protect your fruit trees.

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Early spring is the perfect time to apply the combination spray to your fruit trees, before the buds break (open). Both the sulphur and oil protect your trees from a variety of insects and diseases that can damage the tree and inhibit proper fruit growth. Applying the lime sulphur & horticultural oil is easy; simply spray it on the tree’s stem and branches putting a fine layer on all surfaces. Note the oil stains so be cautious around concrete, decks, houses and clothing.

For more on Lime Sulphur & Horticultural Oil read the directions on their containers.  You can continue to use the sulphur throughout the growing season (as long as the tree isn’t in bloom – you don’t want to interfere with the bees and insects pollinating) if you see any insects or disease on your trees. However, we suggest to only use the oil in the spring before the buds open as oil on the foliage could burn when leafed out.

Proper maintenance of fruit trees will leave you with bigger and higher quality produce so a little elbow grease now will pay dividends by harvest time. Remember, gardening is fun so lets get out there and enjoy ourselves!

 

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Dandelion Problems

Dandelion Problems

Corn Gluten- Natural Weed Inhibitor

Corn gluten is natural and non-toxic. It prevents seeds from germinating – it won’t get rid of existing weeds (those you’ll have to pull or spray), it can inhibit more seeds from germinating. While effective, its application timing also has to be precise – you apply corn gluten in early spring and late fall.

georgina garden centre blog scotts turf builder featured image

Types of weeds best controlled:

  • Crabgrass
  • Dandelions
  • Curly Dock, Knotweed, Lambs Quarters, Pigweed and Plantain

How to apply:

Apply corn gluten to your lawn with a spreader – not by hand. Apply the corn gluten to a moist lawn but be sure that the corn gluten will stay dry for 48 hours after application.  Allow 6 weeks before/after overseeding your lawn with grass seed, as corn gluten will inhibit the germination of any grass seed you put down. Apply corn gluten in April – May depending on weather – before the Forsythia finishes blooming.