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Planting, Transplanting and Dividing

Planting, Transplanting and Dividing
Posted on: February 27, 2018

Planting, Transplanting and Dividing

When planting, transplanting or dividing plants it is vital to use a transplant fertilizer. We use Acti-sol Transplater 4-10-2. It is made of pure hen manure and bone meal.  It is ideal for planting and transplanting all types of plants as the hen manure acts rapidly to stimulate root development and the bone meal breaks down slowly for medium and long term action. A plant will not push any crown growth until it is firmly established.


You can plant at any time of the year, as long as you can dig a hole (so you can’t plant when the ground is frozen).  The most important thing about planting is watering – and not just watering once…water, water, water – water lots especially during the plant’s first year.  Trees need up to 15 gallons (that’s 57 litres) of water a week, shrubs need up to 10 gallons (that’s 38 litres) a week.  The easiest way to water is taking a 5 gallon pail, drill a couple of holes in the bottom, set it beside the plant you are watering, and fill it up – it will slowly empty, giving the plant a nice deep water.  Repeat this a few times a week depending on how much water your plant needs.

This is a great video on how to water using the bucket method.

Also, keep watering your plants until the ground freezes. Plants need nice moist roots going into the long dry winter.


Transplanting plants is a little different than planting potted plants. When transplanting, for the most part, we do not want to move the plant while it is in bloom or during it’s growth time. Move the plant either really early spring or late fall (depending on it’s blooming and active growth time). It is expected that there will be some root loss and damage when moving a plant so plants moved in the heat of summer is discouraged. Damaged roots will not always be able to absorb sufficient water for the whole plant so cutting back the tops is sometimes necessary to keep it hydrated and cool – if possible try to move the plants in cooler wetter weather.

Transplanting offers the ability to redesign your gardens without having to buy any new product. A fresh new look, accentuating different plants and bringing attention to some of your more hidden specimens at a moments notice keeps your yard looking fresh and new.

Dividing Perennials 

As a rule of thumb divide and move perennials in the cooler weather and remember: spring bloomers in the fall and fall bloomers in the spring.

Dividing perennials is a rewarding though finicky gardening adventure. Dividing plants is a great way to scale back some of the more vigorous growers keeping your garden from looking overgrown and unkempt. It is good for controlling plant growth, smaller plants are most often more vigorous bloomers than their larger leafier selves. When managing our gardens that is our goal, emphasis plant blooming and manage our space. When using a spade to separate clusters use rubbing alcohol to clean the spades cutting edge to reduce the risk of disease transmission.

Below is a great article on dividing perennials: when, which ones and how. Check it out!

Check out our video on dividing hostas – the general concept of dividing hostas can be used on many other perennials as well.

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Hedge Trimming

Hedge Trimming
Posted on: September 15, 2017

Hedge Trimming

blog pics 2016

There are many different varieties of hedge but the theory remains the same. Establish your shapes and contours early on in the hedges development and maintain these same designs through its lifetime.

The majority of hedges in our area (Georgina) are cedar. Other traditional hedge types include:

  • Cedar
  • Boxwood
  • Yew
  • Flowering
  • Large Evergreens

When setting up your hedge there are a few things to keep in mind. Its better to take too little off when cutting as you can’t put it back on and cutting too deeply and gouging into the wood will create undesirable brown spots. It is better to round out the top of your hedge then to make it perfectly flat as this will help it shed snow avoiding potential shearing and broken branches.

It is imperative that the bottom of the hedge is thicker in width than the top and tapers upwards, never the other way. While your hedge can be shaped in very artistic ways it is still a living thing and has requirements, especially in terms of sunlight. A well shaped hedge allows sunlight to hit the entirety of its surface as such tapering the hedge top down is very important.

The rule of thumb is to cut twice. Cut the hedge in a way that takes off the most vigorous growth then take a rake and gently bang out the cut pieces, going up and down the hedge across its entire length. These bits will brown up in time and make your hedge look unkempt and disorderly. Following the first cut you will see a notable difference in how tight the hedge looks. To help picture what we mean by tightness consider it like given your hedge a haircut. Were looking for a neat buzz cut not a shaggy unkempt look. With a careful second cut we can safely carve this down a little bit further making the hedge tighter again still. This second cut is the stage that gives the hedge its clean crisp and professional look.

Note: hedges should be trimmed at least once a year any time after July but before freeing temperatures. Leaving the hedges for a year will leave you with a less dense product when you are finished as the plants production goes to its leaders rather than its side. Talk to Georgina Garden Centre about best practices if you desire to change the shape of your hedge.

Use string lines when setting the initial shape of the hedge to ensure its lines are straight and linear.

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Dandelion Problems

Dandelion Problems
Posted on: May 9, 2017

Dandelion Problems

Corn Gluten- Natural Weed Inhibitor

Corn gluten is natural and non-toxic. It prevents seeds from germinating – it won’t get rid of existing weeds (those you’ll have to pull or spray), it can inhibit more seeds from germinating. While effective, its application timing also has to be precise – you apply corn gluten in early spring and late fall.

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Types of weeds best controlled:

  • Crabgrass
  • Dandelions
  • Curly Dock, Knotweed, Lambs Quarters, Pigweed and Plantain

How to apply:

Apply corn gluten to your lawn with a spreader – not by hand. Apply the corn gluten to a moist lawn but be sure that the corn gluten will stay dry for 48 hours after application.  Allow 6 weeks before/after overseeding your lawn with grass seed, as corn gluten will inhibit the germination of any grass seed you put down. Apply corn gluten in April – May depending on weather – before the Forsythia finishes blooming.

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Spring Clean Up Checklist

Spring Clean Up Checklist
Posted on: April 8, 2017

Spring Clean Up Checklist

Spring has come and it is time to get out there and get your yard ready for the coming season. A proper spring clean up will set up your lawn and garden for greater success throughout the growing season. There are a number of things you can do to get your lawn and garden ready.
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Opening your garden beds:

  1. Clean out all winter debris: driveway rocks pushed over with the snow, leaves that came down in the fall, etc
  2. Cut back the dead plant material left by your perennials
  3. Prune back the shrubs that need it
  4. Turn over and add new soil
  5. Clean up the edge of your garden with a freshly sharpened spade
  6. Add a fresh layer of natural mulch

Doing these few things will provide you a great deal more success with your garden in the months to come.

Front yard of home


  1. Aerate your lawn for better air, water and nutrient penetration and to break up heavily compacted ground. Aeration also helps to increase the lawns ability to retain water, reducing run off and erosion
  2. Fan rake the lawn to help the grass stand back up and to clean up excess thatch
  3. Topdress your lawn with new topsoil for greener more dense grass. Top-dressing also allows you to smooth out bumps or low spots in your lawn
  4. Overseed your lawn to thicken your grass, to fill bare spots and to choke out weeds
  5. Fertilize your lawn to green it up, stimulate new growth and to keep it healthy

A beautiful thick green lawn starts in the spring with the proper spring care and maintenance.

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How to Turn Hydrangeas Blue

How to Turn Hydrangeas Blue
Posted on: June 13, 2016

How to Turn Hydrangeas Blue

hydrangea rio

To get that rich blue hydrangea colour in your garden that everyone loves is easier than you think.

If your hydrangeas are supposed to be blue but are pink, you’ll need to add Aluminum Sulphate to the soil.  Adding aluminum sulphate is necessary to change the pH of the soil to help make it more acidic. You can only change hydrangeas blue that are supposed to be blue (i.e. you can’t change white ones to blue) and this process only works on big-leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla).

hydrangea starlight 2

Changing the pH of the soil to the ideal pH 4.5 to 5.5 levels can take more than one season depending on your starting conditions. Start applying aluminum sulphate in the spring as soon as it starts to warm up, once a month until the blooms are open. You can also add pine needles, mulch and/or leaves to help add natural acidity to the soil as they break down.

hydrangea rhythmic blue

Click here to learn how and when to prune your hydrangeas to get the most blooms?


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My Hydrangea isn’t Flowering – HELP?!

My Hydrangea isn’t Flowering – HELP?!
Posted on: August 4, 2015

A question we get asked a lot is: “Why aren’t my hydrangeas blooming?” Kathy, the host of Georgina Blooms, also gets asked this question a lot – so she asked if we’d do a show with her to teach everyone how easy it is to get your hydrangeas to bloom!

There could be many reasons such as, not enough light, too much light, not enough fertilizer, too much fertilizer, not the right fertilizer, BUT quite often it comes down to PRUNING!! – an easy fix!

How and when to prune hydrangeas. Each cultivar is slightly different so, here it is, all in one spot, easy to follow!!


Hydrangea arborescens

These hydrangeas form their flowers buds in the late spring to early summer.

Prune in late fall, winter or early spring. They respond well to being cut back to about 10″-12″ above the ground.

georgina garden centre features annabelle hydrangea shrubs



Hydrangea macrophylla

Big Leaf Hydrangeas typically do not require too much pruning. If you would like a tighter plant or keep it a shorter size, keep reading!

The flower buds form later in the summer for next year’s blooms. The best time to prune it is right after it blooms, from mid-July to mid-August – no later – this gives it time to set bud for next year before the winter hits. Selectively prune out any dead stems, or old non-flower producing stems.

georgina garden centre features hydrangea let's dance shrub


  • Candlelight
  • City Line Mars
  • City Line Paris
  • City Line Rio
  • Bloomstruck
  • Blushing Bride
  • Endless Summer
  • Everlasting ‘Ocean’
  • Everlasting ‘Opal’
  • Everlasting ‘Harmony’
  • Everlasting ‘Garnet’
  • Everlasting ‘Revolution’
  • Forever and Ever
  • Forever Pink
  • Glowing Embers
  • Let’s Dance Rhapsody Blue
  • Let’s Dance Moonlight
  • Let’s Dance Big Easy
  • Let’s Dance Starlight
  • Let’s Dance Diva
  • Light O Day
  • Masja
  • Merritt’s Beauty
  • Nikko Blue
  • Next Generation Red Sensation
  • Next Generation Pistachio
  • Sweet ‘n Salsa
  • Tellers Blue
  • Tiny Tuff Stuff (actually a Hydrangea serrata, however, they have the same pruning techniques)
  • Tuff Stuff (actually a Hydrangea serrata, however, they have the same pruning techniques)


Hydrangea paniculata

They bloom on new wood and are best pruned in early spring. They are very tolerant of hard pruning, in fact cutting the plant back from 1/2 to 1/3 of it’s size will result in larger flowers. They can also be pruned in the winter but why not enjoy the beauty of snow on the dried flower heads – birds love them too. Some selections, particularly Limelight, make an beautiful hedge.


  • Bobo
  • Bombshell
  • Fire and Ice
  • Firelight
  • Limelight
  • Little Lamb
  • Little Lime
  • Little Quick Fire
  • Pee Gee
  • Phantom
  • Pink Diamond
  • Pinky Winky
  • Silver Dollar
  • Snow Mountain
  • Sweet Summer
  • Quick Fire
  • Unique
  • Vanilla Strawberry


Hydrangea anomala

No need to prune – May need to train it on a tree or a wall

georgina garden centre features climbing hydrangea vines



Many of our Hydrangeas are Proven Winners…check out the pictures below to see a good selection of them and others!

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Show-Stopping Hydrangeas

Show-Stopping Hydrangeas
Posted on: April 28, 2015

If you want to be the talk of the neighbourhood, you NEED to have hydrangeas in your garden – yes, hydrangeas plural – you can’t just have one!

We have over 30 varieties of Hydrangeas in stock and they’re all show stopping – good luck narrowing down your favourites!

Here are just a few of the Proven Winner Hydrangeas we carry:


The ‘City Line’ series:

City Line Mars Hydrangea

hydrangea mars

City Line Paris Hydrangea

hydrangea paris

City Line Rio Hydrangea

hydrangea rio 3


Then there is the ‘Let’s Dance’ series:

Let’s Dance Starlight Hydrangea

hydrangea starlight 2

Let’s Dance Big Easy Hydrangea

hydrangea big easy 2

Let’s Dance Moonlight Hydrangea

hydrangea moonlight

Let’s Dance Rhapsody Blue Hydrangea

hydrangea lets dance rhapsody in blue


These are Proven Winners’ (and Our!) best selling Hydrangeas:

Limelight Hydrangea

hydrangea limelight

Little Lime Hydrangea

hydrangea little lime 2

Quick Fire Hydrangea

hydrangea quick fire hydrangea quick fire leaves

Pinky Winky Hydrangea

georgina garden centre features pinky winky hydrangea shrubs

Bobo Hydrangea

hydrangea bobo


Want to know how and when to prune your hydrangea? Click here to one of our previous posts!

Don’t forget to use Aluminum Sulphate on your hydrangeas as they are acid-loving plants and will keep your blue hydrangeas blue!

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